Our group of birders, led by the intrepid RC, met at the Fisherman's Monument overlooking Gloucester Harbor. The weather was already promising, and there was almost no wind to speak of. The sky was clear, and the light was perfect. Whatever RC does to propitiate the weather gods before he leads his trips, he's successful every time. Yet little did I know that our small peaceful band of birders would, within an hour, be embroiled and nearly subsumed by hordes of zealous competitors.
We first stopped off at the Jodrey Fish Pier. The tide was low, and the inner harbor was filled with seabirds relaxing on the water, buoys, and exposed rocks. As members of our group started to scan, RC pointed out a few birders off on the periphery of the pier by themselves...He said to me, "They must be doing the Super Bowl. Check and see if they have any reports."
Ahhh, yes...Today was the Super Bowl! Not the Pats vs. the Giants, but the Super Bowl of Birding! I had forgotten until that moment. It's a competition where teams vie to see the greatest number of species (with added points for rarity) in a 12-hour period. The area is limited to northeastern Massachusetts and southeastern New Hampshire, so teams tend to run into each other a lot at the prime birding spots during the competition. My friends and I were not competing, but since we would be hitting many of the hot spots ourselves, we were sure to encounter our share of competitors, too. And these guys who were walking down the pier away from us looked serious enough to be Super Bowlers. Perhaps they could share with us, from whom they had no reason to withhold information, any tips on exciting birds they had spotted that morning?
To those of you who aren't active birders, this is the kind of the episode that may tickle you with delight for its seeming incomprehensible perversity, or shock and appall you for its dark commentary on human competition and selfishness. What's most surprising for non-birders is that they tend to think of "birdwatchers" as gentle, nature-loving, hippies. And some are. But as active birders know, birders can also be fierce, adventurous, daring, tireless, competitive, and yes, sometimes selfish, status-seeking, and even downright mean. So although you non-birders out there may laugh with surprise and disdain when you hear this story, birders will understand completely.
So back to our story...I left my group and walked down the pier toward the group of men with binoculars and big scopes, hoping to gain some information from their morning's hunt that could lead my friends and me to some exciting new birds. And this is how my conversation went, at 8:15 on a beautiful Saturday morning. Birders can follow the original transcription, but for non-birders, I'll include a translation into functional human English:
"Hey, guys, you Super Bowling today?"
(Are you gentlemen trying to win a competition where you see more birds than anyone else today?)
"Yup."
(Yes, and any delay will not be tolerated.)
"Great! How's it going so far?"
(Oh god, I can already tell you guys are jerks. Have you seen any unusual or unexpected birds this morning?)
"Pretty good."
(Yes, we have, and we have no intention of telling you about any of them.)
"What'd you have so far?"
(What unusual birds have you seen today?)
"We're competing."
(You are the enemy.)
"Oh, my friends and I aren't doing the Super Bowl. We're just birding together."
(We come in peace. We are harmless. Do not fear us.)
"But you could tell someone."
(We fear everyone.)
And that was pretty much how it ended.
Later on, I would observe that there were three distinct kinds of birders in Cape Ann that day. Or, let's say instead, there were three distint species of birders. What those three species were would become clear at the next stop, but for now, I returned to my group of friends and looked out at the peaceful inner harbor.
Common Eider were omnipresent, along with Common Loons, Red-breasted Mergansers, a few Razorbills, a Black Guillemot, and gulls, gulls, gulls. We spotted an Iceland Gull in close, taking a break on a rock exposed by the low tide, serene in the morning sun:
Cooler heads prevailed however, and any confrontation was averted. The Iceland Gull maintained his position.
We also got good looks at a Glaucous Gull, which was a favorite of mine for many reasons. It was too distant to get a good photo, though. Not so with a dignified and noble group of Red-breasted Mergansers that passed close by:
Well, perhaps the hair looks more "modern" than dignified, depending on your generation. As these three swam by, I was reminded how in good light, even familiar birds become new again. Subtle iridescences, obscured colors, and often-overlooked details shine forth, and I always feel my heart fill up with wonder and excitement when I get to see beautiful birds of any species that closely and clearly.
Atop the Gloucester City Hall clock tower in the distance, we could see a few contrasty light and dark spots in motion...possibly the pair of Peregrine Falcons that has made the tower their home. And sure enough, a look through the scope confirmed their presence. An iPhone through the scope might just be enough to capture a photo...Can you see the pair on the clock tower below?
Our next stop was for an unexpected visitor. A Spotted Towhee, primarily a bird of the western United States, had been seen in someone's yard skulking around in the brush. We arrived in the neighborhood, and to our surprise, we were the only birders there. We parked respectfully down the road and walked back toward the spot where the Spotted Towhee had been reported. The owner of the house came out and welcomed us graciously. Whenever a rare bird shows up in someone's yard, you never know whether they're going to be excited at the prospect of hundreds of eager birders descending upon their property, or repulsed by the imposition. Luckily, this homeowner was pleased to have "won the lottery," so to speak, and allowed us to spend as much time as we liked peering into his shrubs.
We spent a while there, tiptoeing around the bushes, squinting into the shady underbrush. After half an hour, still no other birders had arrived, but nor had the towhee. RC is ever patient and deliberate, and he cautioned everyone to keep quiet, spread out, and persevere. I'm always amazed to observe RC's leadership tactics in action. He's very good at managing a group of birders. And he's always willing to devote that extra ten minutes to the search, right at that moment when most people have lost hope and would rather bail out. So we had a dozen or so people spread evenly along a stretch of fifty yards on either side of the road. And after about an hour's time, one person's hand went up. And then another. Within a matter of seconds, the message had been spread, in complete silence, that the target bird had been spotted.
We all inched down the road toward a swingset situated in the side yard, and there behind it, as swarms of House Sparrows fed on the ground below, the Spotted Towhee perched atop a tall stem of grass for all to see. It stayed up for about thirty seconds, and disappeared. It returned once more to the same spot, giving everyone another chance to enjoy, and then fluttered back into the dense brush for good.
About five minutes later, as we all collected our thoughts, other birders did start appearing, also in the hopes of spotting the towhee. We stuck around to explain where the bird had just been seen, and directed people to the exact spot, but the towhee wasn't returning. And over the next half-hour, thirty to forty more birders arrived to catch a glimpse of the rarity. The crowd around the side yard began to multiply, until a veritable throng of birders had enveloped this small area around the swingset. It's definitely one of the phenomena of birdwatching, which again many birders will understand all too well, that although everyone shares an equal right to see and enjoy a bird, once that number of observers grows into a mob, it's not enjoyable for anyone...But not just because crowds are generally unpleasant. It's also that the bird is just not as likely to appear. Imagine you're about eight inches long, like a Spotted Towhee. And there's a small-to-medium sized group of these large, bizarre, two-legged creatures tiptoeing around. Maybe you're curious? Maybe just take a little peek? Maybe stick your head out for a second and see what's what? Now imagine you're eight inches long, and there's a crush of forty or so two-leggers huddled together, whispering, pointing, gesticulating...You might just stay put.
So as it was, as sorry as I felt for everyone else, I was pleased that we had been able to enjoy that quieter and more intimate moment together with Mr. Towhee. RC's determination and patience had paid off, and just in time. As always.
We decided to walk around the neighborhood and leave the crowd of towhee-seekers to their own devices. As we strolled down the road, I spoke with some other late-arriving birders, and discovered that most of them were Super Bowlers. They were moving quickly and anxiously. Yet many others I encountered there had forgone the Super Bowl, deciding to bird by themselves on this gorgeous day. As I scanned around, I then recognized the three species of birders that were present along that gravel road. There were the independents, those who were birding for the same pure pleasure they derive on any other beautiful birding day. They were relaxed, affable, and eager to share. Then there were the Super Bowlers, but of these there were two distinct types. Some had joined the Super Bowl to add a little spice to their birding endeavors, to relish the adrenaline rush of competition, speed, and teamwork. They were jovial, smiling and laughing with the other teams and themselves, clearly reveling in the competition, but still appreciating what the outdoors had to offer. Then there was the third type. Some Super Bowl teams looked dour, as if so consumed by their task that they were blind to the sea and sky. They were serious and uncommunicative. If they were happy, they didn't show it. Far be it from me to suggest what species of birder is best. Each to his own. I love the outdoors, and I love competition, too. I did a "big day" of birding last year with a friend, where we tried to see as many birds in one county in one day as we could, and it was probably the most fun birding day of the year. But I never want to lose that feeling of fun and wonder.
We continued to walk around the neighborhood, away from the towhee spot, and passed by a few birders who were scoping the ocean from the road. They were able to show us what they had found...some Ruddy Ducks, Black Guillemots, scoters, goldeneye, and a stalwart Purple Sandpiper standing firm on the wave-ravaged rocks. The sandpiper would stand tall, then hunker down as he saw the next wave approaching, then get completely overtaken by the crashing wave. And after the the water subsided, he would stand up straight again, completely dry, and await the next attack. He seemed to be enjoying himself immensely.
A report then came to us that a Dickcissel, another uncommon bird in the northeast, had been seen early that morning at a private feeder just a few blocks away. Many birders were returning from that location with negative reports. The bird hadn't been seen for hours. We marched along toward the house with the feeder, accompanied by the soothing ocean surf off to our side. Once at our destination, within seconds the Dickcissel appeared, and with scopes set up, we all were all able to enjoy him as he fed calmly at the feeder.
For the rest of the day, we visited various spots around Cape Ann. The weather remained warm, and so we birded until dusk. At each spot we found more seabirds to enjoy. Harlequin Ducks were found in large numbers:
Few birds can rival the Harlequin Ducks for their striking plumage. Once I get them in the scope, I can never tear myself away. In the right sunlight, you can almost see the brushstrokes someone used to paint them. We found them at many locations:
Many of the seabirds were too distant to photograph. These Long-tailed Ducks below were just at the limit of "iPhone-scoping" range...but close enough to identify:
Long-tailed Ducks used to be called Oldsquaw. The term "squaw" for a young woman is considered offensive by many Native American tribes, and so the name of the bird was changed. The birds themselves didn't notice.
We finished up back at the Jodrey fish pier. The tide was high now, so the Iceland Gull had been compelled to leave his favorite resting rock. We all said our good-byes and headed home. It's hard not to enjoy such a day. Every outing like this fills me up, and changes me for the better. It's a power the outdoors has that you can't put into words. But with an open heart, you feel it just the same.